By the ExoPetGuides Team | Jumping Spider Enclosure
Jumping spider enclosure sizing follows a simple principle: taller than wide, scaled to the spider’s body size, and upgraded as the spider grows. Most adult jumping spiders do well in enclosures measuring 4x4x7 inches to 8x8x12 inches depending on species, while slings start in small deli cups. Getting the size right matters because an undersized enclosure restricts natural climbing and hunting behaviour, while a massively oversized enclosure can make it harder for small spiders to find prey. This guide covers sizing by species, by life stage, and when to upgrade.
The General Sizing Rule
The enclosure should be at least three to four times the spider’s diagonal leg span (DLS) in both width and height (source: Por Amor Art). For jumping spiders, height is the priority dimension because they are arboreal and spend most of their time on vertical surfaces and upper areas rather than on the ground.
Example. A spider with a 15 mm (roughly 0.6 inch) DLS needs a minimum of about 1.8-2.4 inches in width and height. In practice, this means even a small deli cup exceeds the minimum for a sling, and a standard 4x4x7 terrarium exceeds it comfortably for most adults.
The rule is a minimum. There is no real upper limit on enclosure size for a jumping spider. A spider in a larger enclosure will simply establish its retreat in a preferred corner and use the rest as hunting and exploration territory.
Size by Life Stage
Slings (First Through Third Instar)
Enclosure: 8-16 oz deli cup with ventilation holes drilled in the lid and sides.
Slings are tiny, often 2-4 mm in body length. A small deli cup is appropriate at this stage for two practical reasons: it keeps prey (usually flightless fruit flies) in close proximity so the sling can find food easily, and it makes monitoring the spider’s condition straightforward.
Ventilation. Punch or drill small holes (1-2 mm) in the lid and upper sides. Use a heated needle or small drill bit. Holes that are too large let prey escape; holes that are too small restrict airflow.
Substrate. A thin layer of damp paper towel or a small piece of sphagnum moss provides humidity without creating standing water.
When to upgrade. Move the sling to a larger container when it has moulted 2-3 times and its body length exceeds about 5 mm. At this point, a 16-32 oz container or a small juvenile terrarium is appropriate.
Juveniles (Fourth Instar to Sub-Adult)
Enclosure: 3x3x5 inches to 4x4x6 inches, depending on species.
Juveniles are growing quickly and benefit from more space than slings. A small acrylic terrarium with front-opening access and cross-ventilation is ideal at this stage. Add a small piece of cork bark and a twig for climbing.
When to upgrade. Move to an adult enclosure once the spider reaches approximately 75% of its expected adult body length, or when the current enclosure feels restrictive for the spider’s activity level.
Adults
Adult enclosure sizes vary by species. See the species-specific table below.
Size by Species
| Species | Adult DLS (approx.) | Minimum Enclosure | Recommended Enclosure |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phidippus regius | 20-30 mm | 4x4x7 inches | 5x5x8 inches or larger |
| Phidippus audax | 15-25 mm | 4x4x6 inches | 4x4x7 inches or larger |
| Hyllus diardi | 25-35 mm | 6x6x8 inches | 8x8x12 inches or larger |
| Platycryptus undatus | 15-20 mm | 4x4x6 inches | 4x4x7 inches |
| Hasarius adansoni | 10-15 mm | 3x3x5 inches | 4x4x6 inches |
| Phidippus otiosus | 18-25 mm | 4x4x6 inches | 4x4x7 inches or larger |
Hyllus diardi note. This species is significantly larger and more active than the other commonly kept species. The 8x8x12 inch recommendation is not arbitrary; H. diardi in undersized enclosures show increased restlessness and stress behaviours. For more on this species, see our Hyllus diardi care guide.
Phidippus regius note. The regal jumping spider is the most commonly kept species and the one for which 4x4x7 inch enclosures are most widely sold. This size works, but larger females (20+ mm body length) benefit from a 5x5x8 or larger. See our regal jumping spider care guide for species-specific setup.
Why Height Matters More Than Floor Space
Jumping spiders are arboreal. In the wild and in captivity, they spend the majority of their time above ground level. Their silk retreats are built at the highest available point, their hunting happens on vertical surfaces and elevated structures, and their resting posture is typically on a wall or branch rather than the substrate.
A tall enclosure with vertical climbing surfaces gives the spider the movement space it actually uses. A wide, shallow enclosure with lots of floor space does not serve an arboreal spider’s behaviour. This is why a 4x4x7 enclosure is better than a 7x7x4 enclosure with the same total volume.
Practical implication. Standard horizontal containers (plastic shoeboxes, horizontal terrariums, or fish tanks) are poor choices unless oriented vertically. A tall container with a front or side opening is always preferable.
Signs the Enclosure Is Too Small
If the enclosure is too small for the spider’s current size, you may observe:
- Pacing or glass-surfing. The spider repeatedly walks along the walls in a loop rather than settling on perches or in its retreat.
- Web building on every surface. Excessive silk production covering most of the enclosure walls, beyond the normal single retreat.
- Stress behaviours. Refusal to eat, frequent startling, or defensive postures when the enclosure is opened.
- Difficulty hunting. In a very small enclosure, live prey has nowhere to go, and the spider cannot perform its natural stalk-and-pounce sequence.
If you observe these signs and the spider is not in pre-moult (which also causes reduced activity and feeding refusal), upgrading the enclosure size is the first step.
Signs the Enclosure Is Too Large
For slings and very small juveniles, an enclosure that is too large creates a different problem:
- Can’t find food. Flightless fruit flies in a large enclosure spread out, and a tiny sling may struggle to locate them consistently.
- Can’t find water. Misted droplets are spread across a larger surface area, making it harder for a small spider to reliably access drinking water.
- Difficult to monitor. A 2 mm sling in an 8-inch terrarium can be nearly invisible, making it hard to track moults, feeding, and health.
The solution is simple: start small, then upgrade in stages. Deli cup to small terrarium to adult enclosure. Three stages cover the full growth cycle.
Upgrading the Enclosure
When moving a spider to a new enclosure:
- Set up the new enclosure first. Substrate, climbing structures, and one initial misting should be in place before the spider arrives.
- Transfer the spider gently. Coax it into a small catch cup or let it walk onto your hand, then place it in the new enclosure. Do not grab or shake it out of the old retreat.
- Transfer the old retreat if possible. If the spider has built a silk retreat on a removable piece of decor (cork bark, twig), move the whole piece into the new enclosure. Familiar silk scent helps the spider settle.
- Give it time. The spider may be unsettled for 1-2 days in a new environment. Avoid handling and wait 24-48 hours before offering food.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I keep a jumping spider in a jar?
A jar with a secure, ventilated lid can work as a temporary enclosure, but most jars lack the cross-ventilation and vertical space that jumping spiders need long-term. A purpose-built terrarium is a better investment.
Is a 2x2x4 inch enclosure big enough for an adult?
For very small species like Hasarius adansoni, it is borderline. For Phidippus regius, P. audax, or especially H. diardi, no. Use the three-to-four-times-DLS rule and go at least one size up from the calculated minimum.
Can I use the same enclosure for the spider’s entire life?
Not practically. A sling-sized deli cup is appropriate for a 2 mm spiderling but absurdly small for a 15 mm adult. Starting with an adult-sized enclosure for a tiny sling makes feeding and monitoring difficult. Staged upgrades are the standard approach.
How many jumping spiders can share one enclosure?
None. Jumping spiders are solitary and territorial. Each spider needs its own enclosure. Cohabitation creates stress and a high risk of cannibalism, regardless of enclosure size. The only exception is temporary supervised pairing for breeding.
Does enclosure shape matter?
Yes. Tall and narrow is better than short and wide for jumping spiders. Front-opening enclosures are preferred over top-opening ones because reaching in from above mimics a predator approach and startles the spider.
For a complete setup walkthrough including ventilation, substrate, and furnishing, see our enclosure setup guide. For temperature and humidity ranges by species, see our temperature and humidity guide.
ExoPetGuides provides general care information and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult a qualified exotic animal veterinarian for health, medical, or welfare concerns specific to your spider.