By the ExoPetGuides Team | Jumping Spider Species
Hyllus diardi, commonly called the heavy jumping spider or giant jumping spider, is the largest commonly kept jumping spider species in the pet trade. Adult females reach approximately 10-15 mm in body length, with males slightly smaller (source: Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders). Native to tropical and subtropical regions of Southeast Asia, this species requires warmer temperatures and higher humidity than the more commonly kept Phidippus species. H. diardi is best suited to keepers who already have experience with smaller jumping spider species and are ready for a slightly more demanding setup.
Species Overview
Hyllus diardi is found across Southeast Asia, including parts of India, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia. In the wild, they inhabit warm, humid environments with dense vegetation. Their larger size compared to most pet jumping spiders means they take larger prey, need more space, and have somewhat different environmental requirements.
In captivity, H. diardi typically lives 1-2 years, with females living longer than males as is standard across jumping spider species. Their temperament is generally bold and curious, though they can be faster and more defensive than smaller species like P. regius or P. audax when startled.
How to Identify Hyllus Diardi
Hyllus diardi is distinguishable from other pet jumping spiders by several features:
Size. They are noticeably larger than most other commonly kept jumping spiders. An adult female H. diardi held next to an adult female P. regius is visibly bulkier.
Body colouration. H. diardi typically has a brown to grey-brown body with lighter banding on the legs. Some individuals display subtle striping along the carapace. Colouration is less vibrant than the bold markings seen in Phidippus species.
Eye region. Like all jumping spiders, H. diardi has the characteristic four-eye front row with enlarged anterior median eyes. The “eyelash” tufts of hair above the anterior median eyes give this species one of its common names: the eyelash jumping spider (source: Bug Pets LTD).
Chelicerae. Less prominently iridescent than Phidippus species chelicerae. The chelicerae are functional but not the visual standout feature they are in bold or regal jumpers.
For visual comparisons across species, see our jumping spider identification guide.
Enclosure Setup
H. diardi requires a larger enclosure than most pet jumping spiders due to its size and activity level. An 8x8x12 inch or larger front-opening terrarium is recommended for a single adult (source: Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders). Some keepers use Exo Terra nano terrariums (8x8x8 inch) successfully, though taller is preferred for this arboreal species.
Ventilation. Cross-ventilation is critical. Because H. diardi requires higher humidity than temperate species, stagnant moist air creates mould risk quickly. Ensure mesh or vent openings on at least two sides of the enclosure.
Substrate. Use 1-2 inches of coconut fibre, sphagnum moss, or a bioactive substrate mix. A slightly deeper substrate layer than you would use for smaller species helps maintain the higher humidity this species needs.
Climbing structures. Provide robust branches, cork bark tubes, and live or artificial plants. H. diardi is a strong climber and benefits from a well-furnished, multi-level enclosure with plenty of anchor points for silk retreats.
Bioactive option. Due to the higher humidity requirements, bioactive setups with springtails and isopods as a cleanup crew work particularly well for H. diardi. The microfauna helps break down waste and manage mould before it becomes a problem.
For complete enclosure guidance, see our jumping spider enclosure setup guide.
Temperature and Humidity
This is where H. diardi care diverges most from standard Phidippus care.
Temperature. Keep the enclosure between 79-84 F (26-29 C) (source: Bantam Earth). This is warmer than what P. regius or P. audax require. Most homes in temperate climates will need supplemental heating. A low-wattage heat mat (7 watts) placed on the back panel of the enclosure, controlled by a thermostat, is the standard approach. Never place the heat mat underneath the enclosure, as this can overheat the substrate and create burn risk.
Humidity. Maintain 70-80% relative humidity (source: Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders). This is significantly higher than the 50-60% range for Phidippus species. Mist one side of the enclosure daily or every other day. The substrate layer helps buffer humidity between mistings. A digital hygrometer is not optional with this species; you need to monitor levels consistently.
Balance ventilation with humidity. This is the core challenge of H. diardi husbandry. High humidity plus poor ventilation equals mould. Good cross-ventilation plus frequent misting is the correct approach.
For detailed temperature and humidity management techniques, see our temperature and humidity guide.
Diet and Feeding
H. diardi takes larger prey items than smaller jumping spider species, reflecting their greater body size:
- Slings: Flightless fruit flies (D. hydei), fed every 1-2 days
- Juveniles: Small crickets, blue bottle flies, or small mealworms, fed every 2-3 days
- Adults: Medium crickets, blue or green bottle flies, mealworms, waxworms, and small dubia roaches, fed every 3-5 days
The general prey sizing rule applies: no larger than the spider’s abdomen. H. diardi are confident hunters and will readily stalk and pounce on appropriately sized prey.
Because this species requires higher humidity, uneaten prey should be removed promptly. Crickets left overnight in a warm, humid enclosure can injure a moulting or resting spider and contribute to bacterial growth.
For a complete feeding guide, see our jumping spider diet guide.
Handling
H. diardi can be handled, but expectations should be calibrated differently from smaller, slower species.
Temperament. Generally bold and curious, but faster and more reactive than P. regius or P. audax. They may jump further and more unpredictably during handling.
Approach. Let the spider come to you. Offer a flat hand and wait. Do not chase or corner the spider inside its enclosure.
Bite risk. H. diardi can deliver a more noticeable bite than smaller species simply due to larger fang size. The bite is not medically significant but may be felt more clearly. They are not aggressive and will typically flee rather than bite, but startled individuals may nip.
Recommendation for advanced keepers. If you are new to jumping spiders, gain experience with a P. regius or P. audax first. H. diardi’s speed, size, and environmental needs make it a better second or third species than a starter species.
Moulting
Moulting frequency follows the standard pattern: slings moult every 2-3 weeks, juveniles every 3-5 weeks, and adults less frequently.
Pre-moult signs are the same as other jumping spiders: reduced appetite, duller colouration, and increased time spent in the silk retreat. Humidity is especially important during moulting for this species. Ensure the enclosure is at the upper end of the 70-80% humidity range when you notice pre-moult signs.
Do not disturb the spider during moulting. Wait 3-5 days post-moult before offering food.
Common Health Concerns
Dehydration. Despite the higher humidity requirements, H. diardi can still become dehydrated if misting is inconsistent. A wrinkled abdomen is the primary sign. Place a water droplet directly near the spider and increase misting frequency.
Mould exposure. The higher humidity range creates more mould risk. Regular spot-cleaning, good ventilation, and a bioactive cleanup crew are the best preventive measures.
Moulting failure. The most common cause is insufficient humidity. Stuck moults can be fatal. Maintaining proper humidity levels is the single most important health measure for this species.
Temperature drops. H. diardi is less tolerant of cool temperatures than temperate Phidippus species. Sustained temperatures below 72 F (22 C) can cause lethargy, feeding refusal, and increased susceptibility to illness.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Hyllus diardi the largest jumping spider?
H. diardi is among the largest jumping spider species commonly kept in captivity. In the wild, Hyllus giganteus holds the record as the largest known jumping spider, but H. diardi is the most readily available large species in the pet trade.
Can beginners keep Hyllus diardi?
It is not the best starter species. The higher temperature and humidity requirements, larger enclosure needs, and faster temperament make it more suitable for keepers who have successfully maintained a Phidippus species first. See our species comparison guide for beginner-friendly alternatives.
How big does the enclosure need to be?
An 8x8x12 inch minimum for a single adult. Larger is better for this species. See our enclosure size guide for sizing recommendations by species and life stage.
Does Hyllus diardi need a heat mat?
In most temperate climates, yes. They need 79-84 F consistently, which is warmer than typical room temperature. A thermostat-controlled heat mat on the back panel is the standard solution.
Can I keep male and female Hyllus diardi together?
No. House them separately at all times except during supervised breeding introductions. Cohabitation leads to stress and cannibalism.
For an overview of all recommended pet species, see our best jumping spider species guide. For complete husbandry fundamentals, see our jumping spider care guide.
ExoPetGuides provides general care information and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult a qualified exotic animal veterinarian for health, medical, or welfare concerns specific to your spider.