Jumping Spider Temperature and Humidity Guide

By the ExoPetGuides Team | Jumping Spider Enclosure

Temperature and humidity are the two environmental variables that most directly affect jumping spider health, moulting success, and lifespan. Most commonly kept species thrive at room temperature (75-85 F / 24-29 C) with moderate humidity (50-60%), but species-specific differences exist, and getting the balance wrong in either direction causes predictable problems. Too cold and the spider becomes lethargic and stops eating. Too dry and moulting fails. Too humid with poor ventilation and mould takes hold. This guide covers optimal ranges by species, monitoring equipment, heating options, misting technique, and seasonal adjustments.

Temperature Ranges by Species

Different jumping spider species come from different climates, and their temperature tolerances reflect that:

(Sources: Bantam Earth – P. audax, Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders – H. diardi, Bantam Earth – P. undatus)

Key point. For Phidippus species and P. undatus, the typical temperature in a climate-controlled home (68-76 F / 20-24 C) falls within or near the tolerable range. If your home stays at 72-76 F consistently, you do not need supplemental heating for these species. Hyllus diardi is the exception; most homes are not warm enough for this species without a heat mat.

What Happens When Temperature Is Wrong

Too Cold (Below Tolerable Range)

• Reduced activity. The spider moves less, hunts less, and spends more time in its retreat.
• Feeding refusal. Metabolic slowdown makes the spider disinterested in food.
• Delayed moulting. Growth slows, and the interval between moults stretches longer than normal.
• Increased susceptibility to illness. A cold spider has a weaker immune response and is more vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infection.

Too Hot (Above Tolerable Range)

• Dehydration. High temperatures dry out the enclosure rapidly and accelerate the spider’s water loss.
• Heat stress. Erratic behaviour, pacing, and visible distress. In extreme cases, heat exposure is fatal.
• Rapid humidity loss. The enclosure dries out faster, requiring more frequent misting that may not keep pace.

Direct sunlight warning. Never place a jumping spider enclosure in direct sunlight. A small acrylic or glass enclosure in direct sun can reach lethal temperatures within minutes.

Heating Options

Heat Mats

The most common supplemental heating for jumping spiders. A low-wattage (7 watt) reptile heat mat provides gentle warmth (source: Arachnamoria).

Placement. Attach the heat mat to the back panel of the enclosure, not underneath it. Placing a heat mat under the enclosure heats the substrate from below, which can overheat the spider’s resting area and create burn risk. Side or back placement creates a gentle ambient warmth.

Thermostat. A heat mat must be connected to a thermostat. This is not optional. Without a thermostat, a heat mat can overheat to temperatures that damage the enclosure and kill the spider. A basic on/off thermostat is sufficient; pulse-proportional thermostats offer more precise control but are not strictly necessary for a small enclosure (source: Arachnamoria).

Distance. If direct attachment is not possible, position the heat mat 5-20 cm (2-8 inches) from the enclosure. This works for setups where multiple enclosures are kept on a shelf near a single heat mat.

Ceramic Heat Emitters

Rarely necessary for jumping spiders due to their small enclosure size. Ceramic heat emitters are more appropriate for larger reptile enclosures. If you use one, it must be thermostat-controlled and positioned outside the enclosure to prevent burns.

Room Heating

The simplest approach, especially if you keep multiple spiders. Maintaining the entire room at 75-80 F eliminates the need for individual enclosure heating. This is practical in dedicated spider rooms or shelving units.

What Not to Use

• Heat lamps. Too intense for small enclosures; create hotspots and dry out humidity rapidly.
• Heat rocks. Designed for reptiles to sit on; irrelevant for arboreal spiders and uncontrollable.
• Unregulated heat mats (no thermostat). A fire and safety hazard. Always use a thermostat.

Humidity Ranges by Species

(Sources: Por Amor Art, Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders – H. diardi, Bantam Earth – P. undatus)

What Happens When Humidity Is Wrong

Too Dry (Below Optimal Range)

• Moulting failure (dysecdysis). This is the most serious consequence. The old exoskeleton dries out and becomes rigid, preventing the spider from pushing through. Stuck moults can be fatal.
• Dehydration. A shrivelled, wrinkled abdomen is the visual indicator. The spider may become lethargic and refuse food.
• Brittle silk. The spider’s retreat web becomes dry and less structurally sound.

Too Humid (Above Optimal Range, Especially with Poor Ventilation)

• Mould. White, green, or black fuzzy growth on substrate, decor, or enclosure walls. Mould spores can cause respiratory issues for the spider.
• Bacterial growth. Warm, wet, stagnant conditions are ideal for bacteria. Prey remains decompose faster, adding to the bacterial load.
• Condensation. Persistent water droplets on enclosure walls that do not dry within 1-2 hours indicate humidity is too high or ventilation too low.

The critical balance. Humidity and ventilation are interlinked. You cannot manage one without the other. High humidity with good ventilation is fine. High humidity with poor ventilation is dangerous. For ventilation setup, see our enclosure setup guide.

Misting Technique

Misting is the primary method of providing both humidity and drinking water for jumping spiders.

Equipment. A small hand-pump spray bottle with a fine mist setting. Avoid pump sprayers that produce heavy streams rather than mist.

Frequency. Every 2-3 days for most species. Daily for Hyllus diardi. Reduce frequency if you notice persistent condensation or mould.

The one-side rule. Mist one side of the enclosure, not the entire interior. This creates a humidity gradient: the misted side is more humid, the opposite side is drier. The spider self-regulates by moving to its preferred zone. This approach prevents the entire enclosure from becoming uniformly damp.

Amount. Aim for visible water droplets on surfaces (walls, leaves, bark). You are not trying to saturate the substrate or create pools. A few spritzes from a small spray bottle is usually sufficient for a standard 4x4x7 enclosure.

Avoid spraying the spider directly. Water droplets landing on the spider are startling and can enter the book lungs. Mist the far side of the enclosure and let the spider find the water on its own terms.

Timing. Morning or early afternoon misting is preferable. This allows some evaporation during the warmer part of the day and avoids leaving the enclosure at peak humidity overnight when airflow may be reduced.

Monitoring Equipment

Digital Hygrometer/Thermometer

A small digital hygrometer/thermometer combo is the standard monitoring tool. Place the probe or unit inside the enclosure at the spider’s typical resting height (mid to upper level, not on the substrate).

What to look for. A unit that displays both current temperature and current humidity on a single screen. Many inexpensive models also show daily min/max readings, which helps identify overnight temperature drops.

Accuracy. Cheap hygrometers can be off by 5-10% on humidity readings. For most jumping spider setups, this level of accuracy is acceptable. If you want precision (especially for Hyllus diardi where the humidity window is narrower), calibrate the hygrometer using the salt test method or invest in a higher-quality unit.

Analog Dial Hygrometers

Not recommended. Analog hygrometers are notoriously inaccurate and slow to respond. Digital units are inexpensive and far more reliable.

Seasonal Adjustments

Winter

Indoor heating in winter often reduces household humidity significantly. You may need to mist more frequently during winter months, especially in homes with forced-air heating. Temperature is usually not a problem if the heating system is running, but check that the enclosure area does not sit near a cold window or drafty wall.

Summer

High outdoor temperatures can push indoor temperatures above the optimal range, especially in homes without air conditioning. Move enclosures away from windows that receive direct afternoon sun. Reduce heat mat use or disconnect heat mats entirely if ambient temperature exceeds 82 F.

Summer humidity may be naturally higher in some climates, reducing the need for misting. Conversely, air-conditioned rooms can be very dry. Adjust misting frequency based on hygrometer readings rather than a fixed schedule.

Humidity During Moulting

Moulting is the time when humidity matters most. A spider entering pre-moult (signs: appetite loss, dull colour, extended time in retreat) needs humidity at the upper end of the species-appropriate range.

For Phidippus species, bring humidity to 60-70% during pre-moult and active moulting by misting slightly more frequently. For Hyllus diardi, maintain the 70-80% range consistently and ensure it does not drop below 70% during moulting.

Do not flood the enclosure in an attempt to help a moulting spider. Excessive water causes more problems than it solves. A gentle increase in misting frequency is all that is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do jumping spiders need a heat mat?

Most species kept in climate-controlled homes at 72-78 F do not need supplemental heating. Hyllus diardi is the primary exception, requiring 79-84 F. If your home regularly drops below 68 F, a heat mat is recommended for any species.

How do I know if humidity is too high?

Persistent condensation on enclosure walls that does not clear within 1-2 hours after misting, visible mould growth on substrate or decor, and a musty smell when you open the enclosure are all indicators of excessive humidity or insufficient ventilation.

Can I use a humidifier instead of misting?

A small room humidifier can supplement ambient humidity, but it does not replace misting. Jumping spiders drink from water droplets on surfaces, which misting provides directly. A humidifier raises ambient moisture but does not create the droplets the spider needs for drinking.

What is the best thermostat for a jumping spider heat mat?

A basic on/off thermostat (such as the Inkbird ITC-308 or similar) is sufficient for a 7-watt heat mat on a small enclosure. Set the probe inside the enclosure at the spider’s resting height and program the desired temperature. Pulse-proportional thermostats offer finer control but are not necessary for this application.

How do I raise humidity without causing mould?

The answer is ventilation. More misting with good cross-ventilation raises humidity without creating stagnant, mould-friendly conditions. If you are fighting mould, the solution is almost always better ventilation rather than less misting. See our enclosure setup guide for ventilation recommendations.

Do jumping spiders need a humid hide?

Unlike ball pythons and some reptiles, jumping spiders do not typically use a separate humid hide. Their silk retreat provides some microclimate regulation. Maintaining the correct ambient humidity through misting is sufficient for most species.

For complete enclosure setup including ventilation and substrate, see our enclosure setup guide. For sizing by species and life stage, see our enclosure size guide. For general care, see our jumping spider care guide.

ExoPetGuides provides general care information and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult a qualified exotic animal veterinarian for health, medical, or welfare concerns specific to your spider.