Researched and written by the ExoPetGuides editorial team with AI-assisted drafting. All husbandry parameters and veterinary references independently verified against peer-reviewed sources, including the Journal of Arachnology, the American Arachnological Society, and published Salticidae care protocols from institutional collections.
Jumping spiders (family Salticidae) are among the most engaging invertebrate pets available today. With over 6,000 described species, sharp forward-facing eyes, and an interactive temperament that sets them apart from most arachnids, they have earned a growing following among pet keepers worldwide. This guide covers everything you need to set up a healthy enclosure, feed your spider properly, and handle it with confidence.
Jumping spiders are not difficult to keep, but they do have specific environmental and dietary needs that differ from tarantulas and other commonly kept spiders. Getting these details right from the start makes the difference between a spider that thrives and one that struggles.
Choosing Your First Jumping Spider
The most widely kept pet jumping spiders belong to the genus Phidippus, particularly Phidippus regius (the regal jumping spider) and Phidippus audax (the bold jumping spider). Both species reach a manageable adult size of 12 to 22 mm, tolerate a range of room temperatures, and accept commonly available feeder insects without difficulty (source: Journal of Arachnology).
For a first-time keeper, P. regius is the most frequently recommended species. Females grow larger than males, display a wide range of color morphs, and tend to live longer in captivity. If you prefer a species native to North America, P. audax is an equally hardy alternative found across the eastern and central United States (source: BugGuide).
Other species gaining popularity include Hyllus diardi (the heavy jumping spider), which requires warmer and more humid conditions than Phidippus species, and Hasarius adansoni (the adanson house jumper), a small cosmopolitan species suited to experienced keepers. For a detailed comparison, see our guide to the best jumping spider species for pets.
When purchasing, buy from a reputable captive breeder rather than collecting wild specimens. Captive-bred spiders are healthier, free of parasites, and already acclimated to enclosure life. Expect to pay between $15 and $80 depending on species, sex, age, and morph (source: MorphMarket).
Enclosure Setup
Jumping spiders are arboreal hunters that spend most of their time above ground level. The enclosure must be taller than it is wide to match this natural preference. A front-opening acrylic or glass terrarium measuring approximately 4 x 4 x 7 inches is suitable for a single adult spider. Slings (spiderlings) do well in small deli cups with ventilation holes punched in the lid until they reach juvenile size.
Ventilation is critical. Stagnant air promotes mold growth on uneaten prey and can lead to respiratory stress. Enclosures with cross-ventilation, achieved through mesh panels on opposite sides, maintain the airflow that jumping spiders need without dropping humidity too rapidly (source: Josh’s Frogs).
Substrate and Decoration
Line the enclosure floor with 1 to 2 cm of coconut fiber (coco coir) or sphagnum moss. Both substrates hold moisture for ambient humidity while resisting mold when kept lightly damp rather than soaked. Avoid loose vermiculite or sand, which can stick to the spider’s book lungs.
Add climbing structures: cork bark pieces, artificial vines, small live or silk plants, and thin branches. These give the spider vertical territory and anchor points for building its hammock-style retreat web. Most jumping spiders construct a silk hammock or tube near the top of the enclosure where they sleep and molt. Positioning a piece of cork bark or a broad leaf near the ceiling gives the spider a preferred retreat site.
In our keeper community, we find that enclosures with at least three vertical surfaces for climbing produce more active, confident spiders than bare setups with only a single branch.
Temperature
Jumping spiders thrive at room temperature. The target range for most Phidippus species is 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 28 degrees Celsius). Temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit slow metabolism and can interfere with molting. Temperatures above 90 degrees Fahrenheit risk overheating and dehydration (source: Arachnoboards).
Most homes maintain this range without supplemental heating. If your room drops below 70 degrees regularly, a small heat mat placed on one side of the enclosure (never underneath, which can overheat the substrate) provides a gentle thermal gradient. Use a thermostat with the heat mat to prevent temperature spikes.
Humidity
Target ambient humidity of 50 to 60 percent for Phidippus species. Achieve this by lightly misting one corner of the enclosure every two to three days. The spider will drink water droplets directly from the glass or from plant leaves. Avoid saturating the substrate or creating standing water, which promotes mold and bacterial growth.
Species from tropical or subtropical regions, such as Hyllus diardi, need higher humidity in the 70 to 80 percent range and benefit from a deeper substrate layer that retains more moisture. Always match humidity requirements to your specific species.
Lighting
Jumping spiders are diurnal, meaning they are active during daylight hours and rely heavily on vision for hunting and navigation. A standard room with natural ambient light or a nearby desk lamp provides sufficient illumination. Aim for a consistent light cycle of roughly 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, which can overheat the small volume of air inside.
Diet and Feeding
Jumping spiders are obligate carnivores that hunt live prey. In captivity, the most practical feeder insects are flightless fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster and D. hydei), small crickets, waxworms, mealworms, and green or blue bottle flies.
Prey Sizing
The single most important feeding rule is prey size. Offer insects no larger than the spider’s abdomen. Oversized prey can injure or stress the spider. Undersized prey is acceptable but less efficient for nutrition. For slings, Drosophila melanogaster (the smaller fruit fly species) is the standard first food. Juveniles graduate to D. hydei and pinhead crickets. Adults take small crickets, waxworms, and flies comfortably.
Feeding Frequency
Slings need to eat every one to two days because of their rapid growth rate. Juveniles eat every two to three days. Adults can be fed every three to five days. Watch the spider’s abdomen: a plump, rounded abdomen indicates good nutrition, while a shrunken or wrinkled abdomen signals dehydration or underfeeding (source: The Tarantula Collective).
Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours. Live crickets left in the enclosure overnight can stress or bite a resting spider, especially during premolt when the spider stops eating.
Foods to Avoid
Never feed wild-caught insects from outdoors. They may carry pesticides, parasites, or pathogens that are lethal to jumping spiders. Avoid hard-shelled beetles, ants (which spray formic acid), and any insect larger than the spider. Stick to commercially bred feeder insects from a pet store or your own feeder colony.
Hydration
Jumping spiders get most of their water from prey, but they also drink water droplets directly. Misting produces droplets on the enclosure walls that the spider drinks from. Some keepers provide a shallow bottle cap of water with a small piece of sponge to prevent drowning, though misting alone is sufficient for most setups.
For more on feeding, see our complete guide to what jumping spiders eat.
Handling Your Jumping Spider
Jumping spiders are among the most handleable arachnids. They rarely bite humans, and when they do, the venom is mild, comparable to a bee sting with localized redness that resolves within hours (source: National Park Service). However, handling is for the keeper’s enjoyment, not the spider’s. The spider tolerates handling at best and may find it stressful at worst.
How to Handle Safely
Place your open hand flat in front of the spider and let it walk onto your palm voluntarily. Never grab, pinch, or scoop the spider. Jumping spiders can leap 10 to 50 times their body length, so always handle them over a soft surface and away from open windows, fans, or other pets.
Start with short sessions of one to two minutes and observe the spider’s behavior. A relaxed spider walks calmly and may pause to look at you with its large anterior median eyes. A stressed spider crouches, raises its front legs in a threat posture, or repeatedly tries to jump away. If you see stress signals, return the spider to its enclosure.
When Not to Handle
Avoid handling during the following periods:
- Premolt: When the spider stops eating and becomes sluggish, it is preparing to molt. Handling during this time can cause a stuck molt (dysecdysis), which is potentially fatal.
- Immediately after molt: The new exoskeleton needs 48 to 72 hours to fully harden. Handling before that risks physical damage.
- First week in a new enclosure: Give the spider time to acclimate and build its retreat web.
Experienced keepers we work with often describe jumping spiders as “interactive observers.” They track your movements, follow a finger placed against the glass, and will investigate novel objects with curiosity. This behavior is a product of their exceptional vision rather than affection, but it makes them one of the most engaging invertebrate pets available.
Health and Common Issues
Signs of a Healthy Spider
A healthy jumping spider is active during the day, hunts eagerly, maintains a rounded abdomen, and builds or maintains its retreat web regularly. Clear, bright eyes and smooth body surfaces indicate good condition.
Common Health Problems
Dehydration is the most frequent health issue in captive jumping spiders. Signs include a shriveled abdomen, lethargy, and refusal to eat. Increase misting frequency and ensure water droplets are available on the enclosure walls.
Molting failure (dysecdysis) occurs when the spider cannot shed its old exoskeleton completely. Low humidity is the primary cause. If you notice a spider stuck in its molt, gently increase humidity by misting near (not on) the spider. Do not attempt to pull the old exoskeleton off manually.
Mites can infest the enclosure if feeders introduce them. Tiny white or reddish dots on the spider’s body or moving along the substrate are a warning sign. Quarantine the spider in a clean temporary enclosure and replace all substrate and decorations in the main enclosure.
If your spider shows prolonged lethargy, refuses food for more than two weeks outside of premolt, or displays unusual posture (curled legs while still alive), consult an exotic-animal veterinarian. Jumping spiders have short lifespans, and delays in addressing health issues can be fatal.
For a deeper look, read our jumping spider health guide.
Molting
Jumping spiders molt multiple times as they grow from sling to adult. The frequency decreases with age: slings may molt every two to three weeks, while adults molt only once or twice before reaching their final instar.
Premolt signs include loss of appetite, reduced activity, and sometimes a darkening or dulling of body color. The spider will seal itself inside its retreat web to molt. This process takes several hours to a full day. Do not disturb the spider during this time, and remove any live feeder insects from the enclosure.
After molting, the spider’s new exoskeleton is soft and pale. Colors intensify over 48 to 72 hours as the exoskeleton hardens. Resume feeding only after the spider shows interest in prey again, typically two to four days post-molt.
For the full molting timeline, see our jumping spider molting guide.
Lifespan
Most pet jumping spiders live one to three years in captivity. Females generally outlive males, sometimes by a significant margin. Phidippus regius females can reach 24 to 30 months under optimal conditions, while males of the same species often live 12 months or less after reaching maturity. Species, diet quality, temperature stability, and genetics all influence longevity.
For a detailed breakdown by species and sex, see our jumping spider lifespan guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are jumping spiders good pets for children?
Jumping spiders can be suitable for supervised older children who understand gentle handling. They are not venomous enough to cause medical concern, and their small size makes them non-threatening. However, a child must be old enough to avoid squeezing or dropping the spider. An adult should always supervise handling sessions and manage feeding and enclosure maintenance.
Do jumping spiders recognize their owners?
Jumping spiders have excellent vision and can distinguish shapes, colors, and movement patterns. Some keepers report that their spider behaves differently around familiar people versus strangers. While this likely reflects learned associations with feeding routines rather than emotional recognition, it contributes to the interactive experience that makes these spiders popular (source: PNAS).
Can I keep two jumping spiders together?
No. Jumping spiders are solitary predators and will attack, kill, and eat a cagemate. Always house each spider individually. The only exception is a brief, supervised introduction for breeding, and even then the male must be removed immediately after mating to avoid cannibalism.
How often should I clean the enclosure?
Spot-clean prey remains and boluses (the leftover husks from feeding) every few days. Do a full substrate replacement every four to six weeks or whenever mold appears. Rinse decorations in warm water without soap or chemicals during full cleans.
What should I do if my jumping spider escapes?
Check nearby walls, windowsills, and ceiling corners first. Jumping spiders are attracted to light and high surfaces. Place the open enclosure near where you last saw the spider with a feeder inside as a lure. Darken the room except for a light near the enclosure. Most escaped spiders are recaptured within 24 hours.
This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
Disclaimer: This content is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Always consult a qualified veterinarian – ideally an exotic-animal specialist – for any health concern about your pet. Care recommendations may vary based on species, individual animal, and local regulations.
Researched and written by the ExoPetGuides editorial team with AI-assisted drafting. All husbandry parameters and veterinary references independently verified against peer-reviewed sources.
