By the ExoPetGuides Team | Jumping Spider Species
Platycryptus undatus, the tan jumping spider, is one of the most common jumping spiders in eastern North America. Adults reach 8-13 mm in body length, with females larger than males (source: Insect Identification). You have likely already seen this species without realising it: they frequent exterior walls, fences, tree bark, and wooden siding throughout the eastern United States and southeastern Canada. Their mottled tan-and-grey colouration and flattened body profile make them effective bark mimics in the wild and subtle, understated pets in captivity. P. undatus is a straightforward species to keep and a solid option for keepers who want a common, native jumping spider without sourcing captive-bred stock.
Species Overview
Tan jumping spiders range across eastern North America from southern Canada to the Gulf Coast states (source: Wikipedia – Platycryptus undatus). They are strongly associated with human structures, frequently found on the exterior of buildings, under shutters, on fence posts, and on tree trunks. This makes them one of the easiest jumping spider species to encounter and, for those who choose, to collect from the wild.
In captivity, P. undatus typically lives 1-2 years. Their temperament is calm and docile, less overtly bold than Phidippus species but generally tolerant of handling once settled. They are less commonly bred in captivity than P. regius or P. audax, so most pet P. undatus are wild-caught.
How to Identify Platycryptus undatus
Tan jumpers look quite different from the more visually striking Phidippus species:
Colouration. Mottled tan, grey, and brown with chevron-shaped markings on the abdomen (source: Bantam Earth). The overall appearance is cryptic, designed for camouflage on bark and wooden surfaces rather than visual display.
Body shape. Noticeably flattened compared to the rounder Phidippus body type. This flat profile lets them squeeze into narrow gaps under bark, siding, and other tight spaces.
Chelicerae. Small and not prominently coloured. Unlike P. audax with its iridescent green/blue chelicerae, the tan jumper’s mouthparts are unassuming.
Size. Females reach about 10-13 mm, males about 8-10 mm. Mid-range for pet jumping spiders.
Behaviour in the wild. Frequently found resting flat against vertical surfaces like walls or tree trunks, often in small groups in the same general area (though they are not social).
For side-by-side comparisons with other species, see our jumping spider identification guide.
Wild-Caught vs Captive-Bred
Because P. undatus is not widely bred in captivity, most keepers acquire them from the wild. This is generally acceptable for this abundant, common species, but a few considerations apply:
Quarantine. Wild-caught spiders should be kept in a clean, temporary enclosure for 1-2 weeks before moving them into a permanent setup. This lets you observe for mites, parasites, or illness before they contaminate a furnished enclosure.
Parasites. Wild spiders may carry external mites or internal parasites that captive-bred spiders do not. Watch for small moving dots on the body (mites) or unusual lethargy and feeding refusal that do not correspond to moulting.
Stress. A freshly caught wild spider will be stressed. Provide hides, keep the enclosure in a quiet location, and avoid handling for the first week.
Legal considerations. Collecting common invertebrates like P. undatus from your own property or public land is legal in most US jurisdictions, but always check local regulations regarding wildlife collection, especially in parks or conservation areas.
For information on catching techniques, see our how to catch jumping spiders guide.
Enclosure Setup
Tan jumping spiders are arboreal like other Salticidae, but their flattened body shape and bark-dwelling habits mean they appreciate enclosures with flat vertical surfaces as well as branching structures.
Size. A 4x4x6 inch minimum enclosure for adults. Slightly smaller than what you would use for the larger Phidippus species, but the same taller-than-wide principle applies.
Ventilation. Cross-ventilation with mesh or vent openings on two sides. Standard for all jumping spider species.
Substrate. A thin layer of coconut fibre or sphagnum moss. Tan jumpers spend very little time on the ground, so substrate depth is less important than for ground-active species.
Furniture. Flat pieces of cork bark are ideal and mimic the tree bark and wooden surfaces they prefer in the wild. Add a few small branches and artificial leaves for variety. The spider will build silk retreats in sheltered gaps between the bark and enclosure walls.
Hides. Cork bark pieces propped against the sides of the enclosure create natural crevice-style hides that match the species’ habitat preference.
For the full setup walkthrough, see our jumping spider enclosure setup guide.
Temperature and Humidity
P. undatus is a temperate species with modest environmental requirements.
Temperature. 72-82 F (22-28 C) (source: Bantam Earth). Normal room temperature in most homes falls within this range, making supplemental heating unnecessary in the majority of situations. If your home drops below 68 F regularly, a small heat mat on the back panel with a thermostat is sufficient.
Humidity. 40-60%, which is lower than the range for Phidippus species and significantly lower than for Hyllus diardi. Light misting every 2-3 days is usually adequate. The primary purpose of misting is providing drinking water droplets; ambient humidity control is less critical for this hardy species.
Overhumidification risk. Because P. undatus prefers drier conditions than most pet jumping spiders, excessive misting is a more common mistake than insufficient misting. A damp, poorly ventilated enclosure will promote mould and stress the spider.
For monitoring tools and seasonal adjustment advice, see our temperature and humidity guide.
Diet and Feeding
Tan jumping spiders eat the same general feeder insects as other jumping spider species:
- Slings: Flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster), fed every 1-2 days
- Juveniles: Flightless fruit flies (D. hydei) or small crickets, fed every 2-3 days
- Adults: Small crickets, fruit flies, small mealworms, or green bottle flies, fed every 3-4 days
P. undatus are reliable feeders with a straightforward hunting response. They stalk and pounce in the characteristic jumping spider fashion, though their approach tends to be slightly more cautious and slower than the bolder Phidippus species.
Prey should be no larger than the spider’s abdomen. Remove uneaten prey within a few hours.
For a detailed feeder comparison and gut-loading guide, see our jumping spider diet guide.
Handling
P. undatus can be handled but is generally less interactive than Phidippus species.
Temperament. Calm and non-aggressive, but less “bold” and curious than P. audax or P. regius. Tan jumpers are more likely to sit still or walk away slowly than to actively explore your hand.
Technique. The same flat-hand approach works: place your hand near the spider and let it walk on voluntarily. Do not grab or pinch.
Speed. P. undatus can be surprisingly quick when startled despite their normally calm demeanour. Handle over a soft surface.
Expectations. If you want a spider that will reliably approach your hand and seem to “interact” with you, P. regius or P. audax are better choices. P. undatus is more of an observe-and-appreciate species than a handling-forward one.
Moulting
Moulting follows the standard jumping spider pattern: frequent for slings (every 2-3 weeks), less frequent for adults (every 4-8 weeks).
Pre-moult signs include appetite loss, duller colouration, and retreating into the silk hide for extended periods. Do not disturb the spider during moulting. A slight increase in misting frequency during pre-moult (while maintaining good ventilation) helps ensure a clean moult.
Wait 3-5 days after moulting before offering food.
Common Health Concerns
Dehydration. Even in a lower-humidity species, dehydration is possible if misting is neglected entirely. A shrunken abdomen is the first sign. Provide a water droplet near the spider.
Mould. The lower humidity tolerance of P. undatus means they are more sensitive to overly moist enclosures than Phidippus species. If you see mould, reduce misting frequency and check ventilation.
Parasites from wild collection. Wild-caught P. undatus may carry mites or other parasites. The quarantine period mentioned above is important.
Moulting failure. Less common in P. undatus than in higher-humidity species, but can occur if conditions are consistently too dry or too wet. Maintain the 40-60% humidity range during moulting periods.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are tan jumping spiders good pets for beginners?
Yes. Their low humidity requirements, calm temperament, and tolerance of room temperature conditions make them one of the easier jumping spider species to keep. They are less visually striking than Phidippus species, which is the main reason they are less popular in the pet trade.
Can I catch a tan jumping spider from my yard?
In most US jurisdictions, yes. P. undatus is an abundant, common species not subject to conservation protections. Check exterior walls, fences, and tree trunks during warm months. Quarantine any wild-caught spider for 1-2 weeks before permanent housing.
How do tan jumping spiders compare to regal jumping spiders?
Tan jumpers are smaller, less colourful, less interactive during handling, and require lower humidity. Regal jumpers are larger, available in many colour morphs, more “bold” in temperament, and more widely bred in captivity. Care difficulty is comparable. See our species comparison guide for a full breakdown.
Do tan jumping spiders bite?
Rarely. Like all jumping spiders, they can bite defensively if squeezed or trapped, but the bite is mild and not medically significant.
How long do tan jumping spiders live?
Typically 1-2 years in captivity. Females live longer than males.
For an overview of all recommended pet species, see our best jumping spider species guide. For complete husbandry fundamentals, see our jumping spider care guide.
ExoPetGuides provides general care information and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult a qualified exotic animal veterinarian for health, medical, or welfare concerns specific to your spider.