Hyllus Diardi Care Guide: The Giant Jumping Spider

Hyllus diardi, commonly called the heavy jumping spider, giant jumping spider, or eyelash jumping spider, is the largest readily available jumping spider in the Western pet trade and a Southeast Asian species first described by Charles Athanase Walckenaer in 1837 (source: World Spider Catalog). It pairs an impressive body size, conspicuous “eyelash” setae above the anterior median eyes, and a bold but reactive temperament with care requirements that diverge sharply from the more common Phidippus species: warmer enclosures, higher humidity, larger prey, and a less forgiving margin for husbandry mistakes. This guide covers everything specific to H. diardi care, from taxonomy and wild range through enclosure setup, temperature and humidity management, feeding, handling, moulting, breeding, wild-versus-captive sourcing, and the most common health issues.

Taxonomy and Classification

Hyllus diardi sits in the family Salticidae, the largest spider family with over 6,900 described species, and in the genus Hyllus, a group of large-bodied Old World jumpers found across Africa and tropical Asia. It was originally described as Attus diardi by French arachnologist Charles Athanase Walckenaer in 1837 and was later moved into Hyllus. The species name honours Pierre-Médard Diard, a French naturalist who collected zoological specimens in Southeast Asia in the 1820s and 1830s. Recent taxonomic work continues to revise the genus across its Asian range; a 2025 review described three new Hyllus species from Vietnam and re-examined H. diardi‘s status in the region (source: European Journal of Taxonomy).

Other commonly kept large jumpers include Hyllus giganteus (the giant Indonesian jumping spider, which holds the record as the largest known salticid at up to 25 mm body length) and Hyllus semicupreus. Of these, H. diardi is the most widely available outside Asia and the most commonly bred in captivity in Europe and North America. For a head-to-head comparison with the smaller, calmer species typically recommended as first jumpers, see our Phidippus regius care guide.

Geographic Range and Wild Habitat

H. diardi is widely distributed across South and Southeast Asia. Confirmed records cover southwestern China, India, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Indonesia (source: World Spider Catalog). The species occupies tropical and subtropical forest edge, agricultural plantations, garden vegetation, and the exteriors of human-occupied buildings, where it hunts on tree trunks, broad leaves, and walls. It is not a deep-forest specialist; it prefers warm, humid, partially shaded microhabitats with dense vertical structure and abundant prey.

The wild climate H. diardi evolved in sets the standard for captive husbandry. Daytime temperatures in its native range typically run 26 to 32 degrees Celsius (79 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit) with relative humidity routinely above 70 percent across most of the year. This is meaningfully warmer and significantly wetter than the conditions that Phidippus regius evolved in, and it is the single most important reason new keepers struggle with the species: an indoor room at 22 degrees Celsius and 45 percent humidity that suits a regal jumping spider is too cold and too dry for H. diardi.

Species Profile

Adult Hyllus diardi measure approximately 10 to 15 mm in body length (females larger and heavier-bodied than males), live one to three years in captivity, and thrive at 26 to 29 degrees Celsius (79 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit) with 70 to 80 percent relative humidity in a vertical enclosure of at least 8 x 8 x 12 inches. The species is bold, fast, and visually striking thanks to the prominent “eyelash” setae above its anterior median eyes, but its temperature and humidity needs make it a better second or third species than a first.

The size advantage is the single biggest visual draw. Held next to an adult female P. regius, an adult female H. diardi is noticeably bulkier in the abdomen and longer in the leg span, with a more imposing forward-facing eye row.

How to Identify Hyllus Diardi

H. diardi is distinguishable from other pet jumping spiders by four features: large body size (10 to 15 mm), brown to grey-brown ground colour with lighter leg banding, the prominent setae tufts above the anterior median eyes that give the species its “eyelash jumping spider” common name, and chelicerae that are functional but less iridescent than the bright blue or green chelicerae of male Phidippus species.

Size. Visibly larger and heavier-bodied than any commonly kept Phidippus. Females are markedly bulkier than males, with a wider abdomen and thicker legs.

Body colouration. Typically brown to grey-brown overall with lighter banding on the legs. Some individuals display subtle striping along the carapace. Females are generally more muted; males can show more contrast and, in some lines, a velvet-black appearance. Colouration is less vibrant than the bold black-and-white markings of P. regius or the orange of the Soroa morph.

Eye region and “eyelashes”. Like all salticids, H. diardi has the characteristic four-eye front row with enlarged anterior median eyes. What sets it apart is the prominent tuft of setae above each AME, which from the front looks like a pair of eyelashes. This is the feature that drives the “eyelash jumping spider” name and is the easiest single ID cue when comparing to other large salticids.

Chelicerae. Less prominently iridescent than the chelicerae of male Phidippus. They are functional for prey capture and courtship but are not the bright visual standout they are in P. regius or P. audax.

For visual comparisons across pet species, see our jumping spider identification guide.

Enclosure Setup for H. diardi

A correct H. diardi enclosure is vertical, at least 8 x 8 x 12 inches for a single adult, has cross-ventilation on at least two sides, holds 26 to 29 degrees Celsius and 70 to 80 percent humidity, and uses 1 to 2 inches of moisture-retentive substrate plus sturdy climbing structures. The five core husbandry decisions covered below are size and orientation, ventilation, substrate, climbing structures, and bioactive option. Getting these five right is the difference between a thriving heavy jumper and one that struggles through every moult.

Enclosure Size and Orientation

An 8 x 8 x 12 inch (20 x 20 x 30 cm) front-opening terrarium is the practical minimum for a single adult H. diardi (source: Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders). Some keepers successfully use Exo Terra nano cubes (8 x 8 x 8 inch) but taller is genuinely better for this strongly arboreal species. Front-opening glass or acrylic is preferred over top-opening because the spider will build its primary retreat near the top of the enclosure, and reaching past the retreat every day to feed or mist increases stress and damage risk.

Slings can start in 4 to 6 ounce deli cups with pinhole ventilation and a small crumpled paper-towel anchor for the first retreat, upgrading at each moult. Most keepers transition to the adult enclosure at the fourth or fifth instar, once the spider is reliably taking medium-sized prey. Our jumping spider enclosure size guide covers life-stage sizing across species in detail.

Ventilation

Cross-ventilation is critical and is the single most failure-prone variable for H. diardi keepers coming from Phidippus-experience. Because this species needs 70 to 80 percent humidity, the combination of high moisture and poor airflow turns the enclosure into a mould incubator within days. Ensure mesh or vent openings on at least two opposing sides of the enclosure, and prefer enclosures with a vented top plus a front-facing mesh panel. Avoid fully sealed containers even with daily misting. The pattern to remember is: high humidity is achieved by frequent misting plus moisture-retentive substrate, never by sealing the airflow.

Substrate

Use 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of coconut fibre (coco coir), sphagnum moss, or a bioactive arboreal blend (coco coir + sphagnum + a thin top layer of leaf litter and charcoal). A slightly deeper substrate layer than the half-inch typical for P. regius helps buffer humidity between mistings; the substrate becomes a reservoir that releases moisture as the air dries. Avoid sand, gravel, or vermiculite, which can clog the spider’s book lungs if disturbed. For substrate options compared side-by-side, see our jumping spider substrate guide.

Climbing Structures and Decoration

H. diardi is strongly arboreal and a confident climber. Provide cork bark tubes positioned vertically, thick branches that span the enclosure, and live or artificial plants. Live pothos and fittonia tolerate the humid conditions well and contribute to the moisture buffer. Place at least one broad surface near the top of the enclosure (a flat piece of cork bark or a wide leaf) where the spider can build its primary silk retreat. Multiple anchor points encourage natural exploratory behaviour and let the spider choose its preferred retreat location.

Bioactive Option

Because of the higher humidity requirements, bioactive setups suit H. diardi particularly well. A drainage layer of bio-balls or lightweight expanded clay aggregate under a substrate barrier, an arboreal-blend substrate, live plants, and a small cleanup crew of springtails (Folsomia candida) and tropical dwarf isopods (Trichorhina tomentosa) work together to break down waste and suppress mould before it becomes visible. The trade-off is harder visual inspection of the spider and slower troubleshooting if husbandry goes off-track. Bioactive is not strictly necessary for a healthy H. diardi, but it removes much of the mould risk that conventional setups carry. Either way, follow our jumping spider enclosure setup guide for the full layout walkthrough.

Temperature and Humidity

This is where H. diardi care diverges most sharply from standard Phidippus care. Target 26 to 29 degrees Celsius (79 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit) ambient temperature and 70 to 80 percent relative humidity, measured with a calibrated digital thermometer and hygrometer placed near the spider’s resting zone. Sustained temperatures below 22 degrees Celsius (72 degrees Fahrenheit) or humidity below 60 percent push the spider toward feeding refusal, lethargy, and moulting failure.

Temperature Management

Most temperate-climate homes do not naturally reach 26 to 29 degrees Celsius year-round, so supplemental heating is the default. A low-wattage heat mat (typically 5 to 10 watts for a single 8 x 8 x 12 inch enclosure), placed on the back panel of the enclosure and controlled by a dedicated thermostat, is the standard solution (source: Itsy Bitsy’s Spiders). Never place a heat mat underneath the enclosure: substrate insulates poorly, the underside heats unevenly, and the spider can sustain ventral burns if it rests on warm substrate during a moult.

A keeper-grade thermostat with an external probe placed inside the enclosure at the spider’s resting height is non-negotiable. Heat mats sold for reptiles routinely surface-temperature 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit) or higher without a thermostat, which will cook a jumping spider in under an hour. Set the thermostat at 27 degrees Celsius and verify with a separate digital thermometer for the first week. For the broader temperature physiology, see our jumping spider temperature and humidity guide.

Humidity Management

Maintain 70 to 80 percent ambient relative humidity. Mist one side of the enclosure once a day or every other day depending on how fast the substrate dries between sessions, and let the moisture-retentive substrate carry humidity between mistings rather than soaking the air through brute-force spraying. A digital hygrometer is not optional with this species: humidity is invisible without one, and the difference between 65 percent (too dry, moulting risk) and 75 percent (correct) cannot be eyeballed.

The core husbandry trade-off is that high humidity plus poor ventilation equals mould, while high ventilation plus infrequent misting equals dry-out. The correct equilibrium is high airflow plus frequent gentle misting plus moisture-retentive substrate. Treat the substrate as the humidity reservoir and the air as the medium. If you see condensation pooling on the glass for hours after misting, ventilation is too low; if the substrate dries to dust within 24 hours, humidity inputs are too low.

Acclimation and First Week

When a new H. diardi arrives, place it in its final enclosure, mist lightly, set the thermostat target, and then leave it alone for five to seven days. Do not handle. Do not feed for the first 48 hours. Most new arrivals refuse the first one or two prey items while they explore the enclosure and build the initial retreat. By the end of week one, a healthy specimen will be eating normally and tracking movement at the glass.

Feeding H. diardi

Feed H. diardi live invertebrate prey no larger than its abdomen, with frequency and prey size scaled to life stage: slings every one to two days on Drosophila hydei (large fruit flies), juveniles every two to three days on small crickets or blue bottle flies, and adults every three to five days on medium crickets, green or blue bottle flies, mealworms, waxworms, and small dubia roach nymphs. The species’ larger size means it readily takes prey that would be oversized for a Phidippus, but the abdomen-size rule still applies. Go larger than the abdomen and you risk a feeding refusal or a moulting fast.

Prey Items by Life Stage

H. diardi are confident, fast hunters and will readily stalk and pounce on appropriately sized prey. The visual hunting trigger requires movement, so flying or walking prey works better than pre-killed offerings. Gut-load feeder crickets and roaches 24 hours before offering them, using fresh carrot, sweet potato, or leafy greens, to improve nutritional value. For a complete feeding guide including feeder culturing, see our jumping spider diet guide.

Because this species runs at higher humidity than temperate jumpers, uneaten prey must be removed promptly. Crickets or roach nymphs left overnight in a warm, humid enclosure can injure a moulting or resting spider, bite at exposed leg joints, and contribute meaningfully to bacterial and fungal growth on the substrate. The 24-hour rule (remove if not eaten within a day) is stricter for H. diardi than for P. regius.

Handling H. diardi

H. diardi can be handled, but expectations must be calibrated differently from Phidippus. The species is bolder and faster, jumps further and more unpredictably, and has chelicerae large enough to deliver a more noticeable defensive bite when startled. Handling sessions should be shorter, lower to soft surfaces, and reserved for keepers who have already gained reliable handling experience with smaller, slower jumpers.

Temperament and Approach

H. diardi is generally bold and curious like other large jumpers, but the speed and jumping distance are noticeably greater than P. regius. A relaxed H. diardi walks calmly across surfaces and may track your face with its large anterior median eyes. A stressed one crouches low, raises its front legs, jumps unpredictably, or drops on a dragline.

Let the spider come to you. Open the enclosure, place an open flat hand inside, and wait. Never grab, scoop, or chase. Keep your second hand available as a “bridge” if the spider walks toward the edge of your first hand. Handle over a soft surface such as a bed, couch cushion, or carpet. A 3 to 4 foot fall onto a hard floor can rupture the spider’s abdomen.

Bite Risk

H. diardi can deliver a more noticeable bite than P. regius simply because its fangs are larger and engage more surface area. The bite is not medically significant. Salticidae are not a medically relevant family, and any bite presents as a brief pinch with localised redness that resolves within hours. You will simply feel it more clearly than a regal bite. Spiders are not aggressive by default and almost always flee rather than bite; nips happen when the spider is startled, cornered, or feels trapped against a body part. For the full bite breakdown, see our jumping spider bite guide.

When Not to Handle

• During premoult (the spider has stopped eating and is sluggish). Handling risks dysecdysis (stuck moult).
• Within 72 hours after a moult. The new exoskeleton is soft and the spider is fragile to any impact.
• First week after acquisition. Let the spider acclimate before adding the additional stress of handling.
• If the female is carrying or guarding an egg sac. Do not disturb gravid females.
• If the spider has visibly settled into a retreat for the day. Mid-day rest periods are not the time to handle.

If you are new to jumping spiders, gain handling experience with P. regius or P. audax first. H. diardi‘s speed, size, and bite force make it a better second or third species than a starter. Our jumping spider handling guide walks through acclimation pacing and recovery between sessions.

Moulting

Moulting is how H. diardi grows from sling to adult, shedding the old exoskeleton inside a sealed silk retreat over several hours to a day. Slings moult every two to three weeks, juveniles every three to five weeks, and adults much less frequently. Premoult typically announces itself one to two weeks ahead with appetite refusal, duller body colouration, and increased time spent in the retreat. Humidity matters more during moulting for H. diardi than for any temperate species: dysecdysis (stuck moult) from low humidity is the single most common preventable cause of death in captive heavy jumpers.

Premoult Signs

• Refusal to eat for several days to over a week
• Reduced activity, spending more time sealed in the silk retreat
• Abdomen may appear darker or duller as the new exoskeleton develops beneath the old
• Silk retreat is reinforced or sealed with additional webbing
• Slower movement when the spider does emerge

During the Moult

The spider seals itself inside the retreat and may take several hours to a full day to complete the moult. Do not disturb the retreat. Do not attempt to observe the process by opening the enclosure or removing decoration. Remove any live feeder insects from the enclosure immediately. Even a small cricket can bite and injure a vulnerable moulting spider. Push humidity to the upper end of the 70 to 80 percent range when you notice premoult signs; the higher moisture helps the soft new exoskeleton release cleanly.

Post-Moult

The fresh exoskeleton is soft and pale; it hardens and darkens over 48 to 72 hours. Colours often look more vivid immediately after a moult. Do not offer food until the spider shows active interest in prey, typically three to five days post-moult. Do not handle for at least 72 hours. For stuck-moult diagnostics and species-general moulting physiology, see our jumping spider moulting guide.

Breeding H. diardi

Breeding H. diardi in captivity is feasible but logistically heavier than breeding P. regius. Pairing requires two healthy mature adults, separate enclosures until introduction, a continuously supervised pairing with the male introduced into the female’s enclosure (never the reverse), and a realistic plan for raising 30 to 100+ spiderlings from each egg sac. Demand for captive-bred H. diardi is high in European and North American markets, and successful breeders can rehome clutches readily, but the spiderling logistics scale fast.

Sexual Maturity and Pairing

Males reach maturity at their final moult, identifiable by enlarged bulbous pedipalps. Females typically mature one to two moults later. Pair within a few weeks of the male’s final moult while he is vigorous; older mature males show less courtship intensity and lower mating success. Feed both adults well in the weeks before introduction; a hungry female is more likely to attack the male.

Introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. He will begin courtship display immediately if he detects her, raising and waving the front legs, vibrating the body in a species-specific rhythm, and approaching incrementally. A receptive female stays still and lowers her body posture; an unreceptive one raises her front legs in threat or lunges. Watch the pairing continuously. Remove the male immediately after mating or at any aggression cue. Cannibalism after pairing is common in Hyllus if the male is not separated promptly.

Egg Sac and Spiderlings

A successful pairing produces an egg sac within two to four weeks. The female builds a thicker silk retreat around the sac and guards it. Egg sacs typically contain 30 to 100+ eggs depending on female size, age, and condition. Incubation takes two to four weeks at the upper end of the species’ temperature range (27 to 29 degrees Celsius). Cooler conditions extend incubation. Females may produce multiple sacs from a single mating across several months.

Spiderlings should be separated into individual containers within three to five days of emergence; cannibalism among siblings begins as soon as hunger exceeds yolk reserves. First and second instar slings eat springtails and D. melanogaster (small fruit flies); by the third instar most take D. hydei. Raising a clutch of 50+ slings requires substantial fruit fly and springtail cultures and many small containers. Most hobby breeders sell or rehome the majority of a clutch. Our jumping spider spiderling care guide covers the full sling-rearing protocol, and our jumping spider breeding guide covers cross-species pairing logistics.

Wild-Caught vs Captive-Bred H. diardi

For H. diardi, captive-bred is the strong recommendation for almost every keeper outside the species’ native range. Wild-caught specimens enter the Western pet trade primarily through Southeast Asian collectors and Indonesian export channels, and they carry meaningful parasite risk, unknown remaining lifespan, and a difficult acclimation curve. Captive-bred lines in Europe and North America are well-established and produce healthier, longer-lived spiders.

Captive-Bred (Recommended)

Captive-bred H. diardi from established European or North American breeders are raised under controlled conditions, free from the parasitic mites and nematodes seen in wild-caught imports, and already adapted to enclosure life. Reputable breeders provide approximate hatch dates and instar stage, so you know the spider’s age and expected remaining lifespan. Price ranges $45 to $90 USD for juveniles in 2026, reflecting the lower captive-breeding throughput compared to P. regius.

Look for breeders who can document the parent lineage and who offer juveniles past the third or fourth instar, because mortality on very early-instar slings is significant during shipping and rehoming. For sourcing logistics across species, see our where to buy a jumping spider guide.

Wild-Caught (Caution)

Wild-caught H. diardi imported through Southeast Asian channels are typically much cheaper but come with real welfare and pathogen risk. They may carry internal parasites, mites, or bacterial infections not visible on inspection. Their age and reproductive history are unknown, so a wild-caught adult female may be near the end of her lifespan and arrive already gravid from a wild mating, producing one sac and declining. Wild-caught individuals are also markedly more skittish and may never settle into reliable handling.

If you do acquire a wild-caught specimen, quarantine in a clean, simple enclosure for at least three to four weeks before introducing it near any other invertebrates in your collection. Inspect for mites on the body and around the leg joints, watch for abnormal feces, and treat the spider as potentially carrying pathogens until it has fed normally through several cycles. For broader wild-collection ethics and legal considerations, see our catching wild jumping spiders guide. Note that legally collecting H. diardi in its native range requires research into the relevant country’s wildlife regulations, which are not uniformly hobbyist-friendly across South and Southeast Asia.

Common Health Concerns

The most common H. diardi health issues are dehydration (counter-intuitive given the humidity needs but real when misting is inconsistent), dysecdysis (stuck moult, almost always humidity-driven), mould exposure (the cost of high-humidity husbandry), cold lethargy (temperatures below 22 degrees Celsius), and mite infestation (mostly grain mites from feeder cultures). Most resolve with husbandry correction; persistent symptoms or nematode signs require an exotic-animal veterinarian.

Dehydration. Despite the higher humidity requirements, H. diardi can still dehydrate if misting is inconsistent or the substrate dries between sessions. A wrinkled or shrivelled abdomen is the primary visible sign. Increase misting frequency, place fresh water droplets directly within the spider’s line of sight, and consider a damp sphagnum moss pad near the retreat for a few days. For the broader hydration mechanism, see our jumping spider hydration guide.

Dysecdysis (stuck moult). The most common preventable cause of death in captive H. diardi. Almost always caused by humidity dropping below 60 percent during the moult window. If the spider appears stuck in its old exoskeleton, gently raise humidity by misting near (not directly on) the spider and warming the enclosure to the upper end of the species range. Do not attempt to manually peel old skin; pulling at shed exoskeleton tears the soft new cuticle and is reliably fatal.

Mould exposure. The higher humidity range creates more mould risk than any temperate jumper. Spot-clean prey remains and feces every few days, maintain strong cross-ventilation, and consider a bioactive cleanup crew of springtails and tropical isopods. Visible white or grey patches on substrate or decor mean either ventilation is too low or organic debris has accumulated; address both before they reach the spider’s retreat.

Cold lethargy and feeding refusal. Sustained temperatures below 22 degrees Celsius (72 degrees Fahrenheit) push H. diardi toward lethargy, feeding refusal, and increased disease susceptibility. The species evolved in tropical conditions and does not tolerate cool ambient temperatures the way P. regius does. Verify thermostat function with an independent thermometer, especially during winter months when room temperatures drop.

Mite infestation. Small white or reddish dots moving on the spider or in the enclosure indicate mites, most commonly grain mites introduced through feeder cultures. Quarantine the spider in a clean container with paper towel substrate, replace all enclosure contents, and source new feeders from a clean culture. Our jumping spider parasites and mites guide covers prevention and treatment.

Abdominal rupture from falls. Like all jumping spiders, H. diardi‘s hydraulic leg system makes the abdomen vulnerable to blunt impact. A fall from hand height onto a hard floor can rupture the abdomen and is reliably fatal. Always handle over soft surfaces.

If symptoms do not resolve with husbandry adjustment within 48 to 72 hours, or if you suspect a parasitic infection that goes deeper than mites, consult a qualified exotic-animal veterinarian (source: Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians). For a broader symptom triage walkthrough, see our jumping spider health signs guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

The questions below are the ones H. diardi keepers ask most often after the initial acquisition. Each answer is intended to stand on its own as a quick reference, with deeper coverage linked where useful.

Is Hyllus diardi the largest jumping spider?

H. diardi is among the largest jumping spider species commonly kept in captivity, with adult females reaching 12 to 15 mm in body length. The actual record-holder for largest known salticid is Hyllus giganteus, a closely related species that can reach 25 mm body length, but H. giganteus is much harder to source in the Western pet trade. For practical purposes, H. diardi is the largest jumping spider most keepers will realistically buy. For the full size comparison across pet species, see our best jumping spider species guide.

Can beginners keep Hyllus diardi?

H. diardi is not the ideal starter species. The higher temperature and humidity requirements, larger enclosure needs, supplemental heating with thermostat, and faster, more reactive temperament make it a better second or third species than a first jumping spider. A keeper who has successfully maintained a Phidippus regius or P. audax through at least one full moult cycle has the husbandry instincts needed to handle the tighter H. diardi parameters. New keepers who try to start with H. diardi often run into humidity-driven moult failures within the first six months.

How big does the enclosure need to be?

An 8 x 8 x 12 inch (20 x 20 x 30 cm) vertical front-opening terrarium is the practical minimum for a single adult H. diardi. Larger is genuinely better for this strongly arboreal species; a 12 x 12 x 18 inch enclosure with rich vertical structure gives the spider real hunting and climbing range without becoming so large the spider cannot find prey. Slings and juveniles start smaller and upgrade at each major moult.

Does Hyllus diardi need a heat mat?

In almost every temperate climate, yes. H. diardi needs 26 to 29 degrees Celsius (79 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit) consistently, which is warmer than typical indoor room temperature in most of Europe and North America. A low-wattage heat mat (5 to 10 watts) placed on the back panel of the enclosure and controlled by a thermostat is the standard solution. Never place the heat mat underneath the enclosure: it heats the substrate unevenly and can burn a moulting spider. A thermostat is non-negotiable; unregulated heat mats reach lethal surface temperatures.

Can I keep male and female Hyllus diardi together?

No. Cohabitation reliably ends in one spider eating the other regardless of how well-fed they appear at the start. Jumping spiders are solitary in the wild even in dense populations, and H. diardi‘s size and speed make cannibalism faster and more decisive than in smaller species. House each spider individually. The only acceptable exception is a brief, continuously supervised breeding introduction, after which the male must be removed within minutes of mating to avoid post-copulatory cannibalism by the female.

How long does Hyllus diardi live in captivity?

Adult females typically live 2 to 3 years in captivity from final moult; adult males live 1 to 1.5 years from maturity. Total lifespan from sling to senescence runs 2.5 to 4 years for females depending on growth rate at intermediate instars. Wild lifespans are generally shorter due to predation and environmental stress. Captive longevity depends most heavily on consistent humidity (preventing moult failure) and consistent warmth (preventing cold-induced metabolic decline). For lifespan data across jumping spider species, see our jumping spider lifespan guide.

This article was researched and written by the ExoPetGuides editorial team with AI-assisted drafting. All husbandry parameters, taxonomic references, and species distribution data were independently verified against the World Spider Catalog, peer-reviewed Salticidae taxonomy, and species-authority care references. ExoPetGuides does not sell jumping spiders or jumping spider products and has no affiliate relationship with any breeder named in this guide. ExoPetGuides does not provide veterinary advice.

This guide provides general husbandry information based on current arachnology consensus and is intended for the context of pet jumping spider ownership. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult a qualified exotic-animal veterinarian for any health concern about your spider. Care recommendations may vary based on individual animal, regional climate, and local regulations.